Pernambuco, Maracaipe
all stories and essays by Avram Klein
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Tutu
I had made friends with the sunshine man, Leo, who owned the surf school. We would go to the disco or kick it at his shop on the beach smoking joints. I couldn't understand most of what he said, but he was really nice.
The sky cleared up and the waves began to dump hard and fast, bright green and glassy in the sun. Everybody started going out. Sitting in the line-up, I would just watch everybody rip it up.
Raulindo was out with his son, barking some kind of business advice in Leo's ear as Leo rolled his eyes.
Kelly from Santa Catarina, with her blond ponytail, surf cap, and strong shoulders would carve through all the sections, trying not to get run over by the local brutes.
Sergio pumped down the line and was dropped in on by another brodare. Sergio let the kid take it and popped eight feet off the lip, arching his back in the air, board in hand, and dove back, head first into the water.
Rualindo was dropping in on breaks with technical precision, throwing perfectly formed half circles of water off the top of the waves.
Sergio and I rode in at about the same time and decided to go back to my campsite and smoke a joint. We sat in the shade and smoked with the two big dogs, Captau and his brother, resting under our chairs.
Sergio explained to me how he is the local surf champion from nearby Guaba where the waves are perfect. He also explained how not to travel with separated joints because the cops can claim that you're distributing. He said to carry one joint in your pocket and put the rest down your shorts.
We mostly sat silent as Sergio stared lovingly at his board laying across his lap, wiping the bottom clear of salt. Sergio is ripped, tall, tan, and completely stoked. He giggles out of control when he talks and then a moment later, he'll get a serious and somewhat demanding game face on in order to do business. He eventually took off to go eat and I grabbed my snorkle and went to go look for sea horses in the river.
I drifted, stoned, across the beach road and just avoided a parade of 50 dune buggies filled with screaming Portuguese spring breakers. I was trying to scope each chick as they passed by, but there were maybe a million of them. I had told Sergio I would meet him and Chrischopher that night to party with the Portuguese mulheres and I was pretty stoked.
Then I met a girl. I had kept on towards the river, and there in front of me was a shining tan booty laying next to a girl in a white bikini. I decided to flank them and see if I could move in for some simple conversation. I went up to the bar and orderd an agua de coco, which became an event in itself because the local kids behind the bar had to find a machete and correct change.
By the time I turned from the bar, the girl had put her shorts on and was looking for something in her bag. Other than the shorts, she was only dressed in a bikini top and a little Nike cap.
I walked up and asked, "Tutu bane?" She said, "Tutu," which means, "This is special," which was a good sign.
When I asked if she spoke English, she kind of smiled and let me know that she liked me when she said, "Yes." I was in shock. Her name was Adriana and I found myself mesmerised, staring into her eyes for what seemed like ten minutes. It was crazy. I should have just grabbed her right there. It seemed as though her smile and brown eyes were focused directly into my pupils.
Her friend came over and introduced herself and spoke perfect English. Adriana's friend was named Tina (pronounced Chee-nah). We took off to the river together and floated in complete comfort in the warm brackish water. She was completely gorgeous. I was floating upstream from Adriana as we talked and I almost let myself float right into her. I should have.
Tina invited me to join them for lunch and then took me home with them to Recife. Before we left, I added a little heat by changing in front of them and climbing on all fours into my tent in my red, designer underwear for a moment.
Adriana was visiting Tina in Recife from Sao Paulo after visiting her sister in Forteleza; then she was traveling to Fernando do Noronha. Her sister was living in Fortaleza as a polistana, or hippie, selling jewelry on the beach. She had just given birth to a girl three months before.
Fernando de Noronha is one of the most beautiful places in the world. It is an archipelago off the coast of Brazil with the clearest water and the best scuba diving in the world. It also has some of the most beautiful beaches in Brazil.
Tina was divorced and lived in one of the nicest apartments I've ever seen with her two children and two cousins who work for her as maids and have taken care of the children since they were born. Her kids, Elizabetha and Eduardo, were awesome. We played marbles on the floor and then Adriana and I took off to see Chicago.
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